Plus size models aren’t just appearing on runways anymore-they’re rewriting the rules. Ten years ago, seeing a size 16 or 20 model in a major brand campaign was rare. Today, it’s expected. And it’s not because of pity or political correctness. It’s because consumers demanded real representation, and the fashion industry had no choice but to respond.
The Shift Started With Consumers, Not Designers
It wasn’t fashion editors or CEOs who pushed for change. It was women. Real women, scrolling through Instagram, tired of seeing only one body type in ads. They called out brands. They tagged them. They bought from the ones that listened. In 2018, Ashley Graham became the first plus size model to land a cover of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. Sales for the issue jumped 14% that year. Brands noticed. Not because they cared about diversity-they cared about money.By 2023, Savage X Fenty’s runway shows featured models ranging from size 0 to 28. Dove’s Real Beauty campaign, launched over a decade ago, still drives 30% of its global sales because it shows women who look like their customers. This isn’t activism. It’s smart business.
What Changed on the Runway?
In 2015, only 4% of models on New York Fashion Week runways were size 12 or larger. By 2024, that number hit 27%. That’s not a trend. That’s a structural shift. Designers like Christian Siriano, who’s been dressing curves since 2010, didn’t wait for permission. He showed a size 22 model in his debut show. Now, he’s one of the most respected names in the industry.Big names followed. Tommy Hilfiger launched a dedicated plus size line in 2017. Target’s Universal Thread line, featuring models up to size 28, sold out within hours of launch. Amazon Fashion now has a ‘Curve’ filter with over 12,000 items. Retailers aren’t just adding a few extra sizes-they’re building entire departments around them.
It’s Not Just About Clothes
The impact goes beyond fabric and seams. Plus size models are changing how people see themselves. A 2024 study by the Body Positivity Institute found that 68% of women who regularly saw diverse body types in media reported higher self-esteem. That’s not a small number. That’s a cultural shift.Before, girls grew up thinking they had to be thin to be beautiful. Now, they see models like Lizzo, Tess Holliday, and Gabi Gregg walking in designer gowns, holding luxury handbags, and looking powerful. They’re not ‘trying to look good for their size.’ They’re just looking good-full stop.
And it’s not just Western countries. In Brazil, where curvy bodies have always been celebrated, plus size models dominate billboards. In Nigeria, brands like Ejiro Amos Tafiri feature models with fuller figures in their high-end collections. This isn’t a Western trend. It’s a global movement.
The Real Cost of Exclusion
Brands that ignore this shift are losing more than just sales-they’re losing trust. In 2022, a major UK retailer faced backlash after launching a ‘slimming’ dress line with only size 8 as the largest. The hashtag #SizeInclusiveFashion trended for three days. They pulled the campaign within 48 hours.Meanwhile, companies like Universal Standard, which offers sizes 00-40, grew 300% between 2020 and 2024. Their secret? No ‘plus size’ section. Just clothes. For everyone. Customers don’t want to be segregated. They want to be included.
Challenges Still Remain
Progress isn’t perfect. Many brands still treat plus size models as a token. One model told me she was booked for a campaign, then told to wear a different bra because ‘the fabric didn’t work on her body.’ That’s not inclusion. That’s compromise.There’s also a lack of representation behind the scenes. Most fashion houses still have no plus size buyers, stylists, or designers on staff. That’s why some collections still look like they were designed on a size 6 and then stretched out. The fabric pulls. The seams strain. The fit is off.
True inclusion means designing for curves from the start-not adding them as an afterthought. It means hiring pattern makers who understand how a size 20 body moves, sits, and breathes. It means giving plus size models creative input, not just posing them in front of a camera.
Who’s Leading the Change?
Some names keep showing up because they’re doing it right:- Ashley Graham-not just a model, but a founder of her own lingerie line and a vocal advocate for size-inclusive design.
- Tess Holliday-built a global brand around body confidence, partnering with brands like Kat Von D Beauty and Lane Bryant.
- Paloma Elsesser-walked for Chanel, Dior, and Fendi, and now designs her own collection with a focus on fit and comfort.
- Isis King-one of the first plus size trans models to break into mainstream fashion, paving the way for intersectional representation.
These women aren’t waiting for invitations. They’re creating platforms, launching brands, and demanding seats at the table. And the industry is starting to listen.
What’s Next?
The next frontier? Age and disability. The same women who pushed for size inclusion are now asking: Where are the models over 50? Where are the models in wheelchairs? Where are the models with stretch marks, scars, or cellulite?Brands that answer those questions next will win the next decade. Because the truth is, fashion has always been about identity. And identity isn’t one size. It’s every size.
The future of fashion isn’t about being thin. It’s about being real. And plus size models? They’re not just part of that future. They’re leading it.
Are plus size models really changing how clothes are designed?
Yes. Brands that once stretched size 8 patterns to fit larger bodies are now hiring pattern makers who design specifically for curves from the start. Companies like Universal Standard and Eileen Fisher use 3D body scanning technology to create fits that work across sizes, not just scaled-up versions of the same design.
Why do some plus size models still get paid less than straight-size models?
Pay gaps still exist because the industry hasn’t fully normalized diversity. Many agencies still classify plus size models as a ‘niche’ category, which means lower rates and fewer high-profile gigs. But top models like Paloma Elsesser and Ashley Graham now command the same fees as their straight-size peers-proving that value isn’t tied to size, but to influence and reach.
Do plus size models only work in ‘curvy’ or ‘plus’ collections?
No. Many now walk for luxury houses like Gucci, Prada, and Balenciaga. In 2023, a size 20 model opened the Valentino show in Milan. The industry is moving away from siloed categories. The goal isn’t to have a ‘plus size section’-it’s to have no section at all.
How can I support inclusive fashion as a consumer?
Buy from brands that feature diverse models and offer extended sizing. Follow and engage with plus size models on social media. Call out brands that exclude larger sizes. And don’t just support them during ‘body positivity month’-make it a habit. Your spending power speaks louder than any protest sign.
Is the fashion industry doing enough?
Not yet. While progress is visible, many brands still treat size inclusion as a PR move. True change means hiring diverse teams, investing in better fit technology, and letting models have creative input. The goal isn’t to check a box-it’s to rebuild the system so no one ever feels invisible again.
